How to Convert a Bathtub to a Walk-In Shower Yourself

If your old bathtub is collecting dust — or worse, just collecting shampoo bottles nobody uses — you're not alone. According to the National Association of Home Builders, walk-in showers have topped the list of most-wanted bathroom features for several years running, and 2026 is no different. Homeowners overwhelmingly prefer the open, accessible feel of a walk-in shower over a traditional tub-and-shower combo.

The good news? A tub-to-shower conversion is absolutely a DIY-friendly project if you're comfortable with basic plumbing and tile work. Contractors typically charge $5,000 to $12,000 for this job, but you can do it yourself for $1,200 to $3,500 in materials depending on your finish choices. Over a long weekend (or two), you can completely transform your bathroom.

This guide walks you through the entire process — from planning and demolition to plumbing, waterproofing, and finishing.

Before You Start: Planning and Considerations

A tub-to-shower conversion is a medium-to-advanced DIY project. Before you grab a sledgehammer, take time to plan properly. Rushing the planning phase is the number-one reason these projects go sideways.

Should You Remove the Only Bathtub?

Real estate professionals generally recommend keeping at least one bathtub in a home, especially if you have three or fewer bedrooms. If this is your only tub, consider whether the conversion could affect resale value. In homes with two or more bathrooms, converting a secondary tub to a shower is almost always a net positive for value and livability.

Check Your Local Codes

Many municipalities require a permit for plumbing modifications, especially if you're moving the drain location. Call your local building department before starting. In most cases, a straightforward conversion using the existing drain location won't require a permit, but it's always better to ask first.

Measure and Plan Your Layout

Standard bathtubs are 60 inches long and 30 to 32 inches wide. This gives you a generous shower footprint — most walk-in showers need a minimum of 36 by 36 inches. Sketch out your planned layout including:

• Shower valve and showerhead placement
• Drain location (ideally using the existing drain position)
• Any niches or shelving you want to build in
• Door or curtain configuration
• Bench seat, if desired

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Tools:

• Reciprocating saw
• Pry bar and hammer
• Pipe wrench and adjustable pliers
• Level (a 4-foot level works great)
• Notched trowel (1/4-inch square notch for most wall tile)
• Tile wet saw or snap cutter
• Mixing drill and paddle
• Utility knife
• Caulk gun

Materials:

• Shower pan (acrylic base or materials for a custom mortar bed)
• Shower drain assembly
• Cement board (Hardiebacker or Durock)
• Cement board screws
• Waterproofing membrane (Kerdi, RedGard, or similar)
• Shower valve and trim kit
• Wall tile and floor tile
• Thinset mortar
• Grout and grout sealer
• Silicone caulk (100% silicone, mold-resistant)
• PVC or ABS fittings (if modifying drain)

Step 1: Demolition — Removing the Old Bathtub

Demolition is the most satisfying part, but also where you need to be the most careful. One wrong move with a reciprocating saw can mean a cut water line or damaged framing.

Prepare the Space

1. Turn off the water supply to the bathroom. If there are no dedicated shutoff valves for the tub, shut off the main water supply.
2. Remove the drain and overflow. Use a drain removal tool or large pliers to unscrew the drain fitting. Disconnect the overflow plate and linkage.
3. Remove the faucet handles, spout, and showerhead if present. Keep the shower valve in place for now if you plan to reuse the same rough-in location.
4. Protect the floor with a drop cloth or old blankets. Cast iron tubs are extremely heavy and will damage tile or vinyl on the way out.

Remove Surround and Tub

1. Cut away the wall surface around the tub. If you have a fiberglass surround, use a reciprocating saw to cut it into manageable sections. For tile surrounds, use a pry bar to pull tiles and backer board off the studs. Remove material 6 to 12 inches above the planned shower height.
2. Disconnect the drain. From below (or through an access panel), disconnect the P-trap from the drain shoe. If you don't have access from below, you may need to cut the drain pipe.
3. Remove the tub. Fiberglass and acrylic tubs can be cut in half with a reciprocating saw for easier removal. Cast iron tubs can be broken with a sledgehammer (wear full safety gear and drape a heavy blanket over the tub to contain fragments) or carried out whole with a helper — they weigh 300 to 400 pounds.
4. Inspect the framing and subfloor. Look for rot, mold, or water damage. Now is the time to replace any compromised framing or plywood. Don't skip this step — building over damaged structure will create problems down the road.

Step 2: Plumbing Modifications

This is the step that intimidates most DIYers, but if you're keeping the drain in roughly the same location and reusing the existing shower valve position, the plumbing work is manageable.

Relocate or Adapt the Drain

Bathtub drains are typically offset to one end of the tub. For a shower, you generally want the drain centered or positioned for optimal water flow.

• If you're using a prefabricated shower pan, the drain location is fixed by the pan manufacturer. Measure carefully and modify the drain pipe to align with the pan's drain hole. This usually means cutting the existing drain pipe and using PVC couplings and elbows to reach the new position.
• If you're building a custom mortar bed, you have more flexibility with drain placement. A linear drain along one wall is a popular modern option that also simplifies the floor slope.

Make sure your new drain assembly connects to the existing P-trap or that you install a new one. The P-trap must be accessible or within code-compliant distance from the drain.

Update the Shower Valve

If the existing valve is in good condition and is a pressure-balancing or thermostatic type (required by current code), you can reuse it. If you have an older two-handle valve, now is the ideal time to upgrade to a single-handle pressure-balancing valve. Popular options from Moen, Delta, and Kohler run $75 to $200 for the rough-in valve.

Consider the showerhead height — standard placement is 80 inches from the shower floor, but adjust for the tallest person in your household. If you want a rain showerhead, you may need to run a new supply line to the ceiling.

Test Before You Close the Walls

Once your plumbing modifications are complete, turn the water back on and test everything thoroughly. Check every connection for drips. Let the water run for 10 minutes while you watch each joint. A small leak behind a finished wall becomes a very expensive problem.

Step 3: Install the Shower Base and Cement Board

With your plumbing roughed in and tested, it's time to start building the shower enclosure.

Setting the Shower Pan

For a prefabricated acrylic pan:

1. Dry-fit the pan to verify the drain aligns perfectly.
2. Apply a bed of mortar or construction adhesive to the subfloor according to the pan manufacturer's instructions. This prevents flexing and cracking.
3. Set the pan in place and press firmly. Check for level in all directions.
4. Connect the drain assembly and hand-tighten, then snug with pliers. Don't overtighten plastic fittings.
5. Let the mortar bed cure for 24 hours before walking on the pan.

For a custom mortar bed:

1. Install a PVC shower liner over the subfloor, folding it up the walls at least 6 inches.
2. Install the drain assembly with a clamping ring that sandwiches the liner.
3. Mix deck mud (4 parts sand to 1 part Portland cement) and pack it over the liner, creating a slope of 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain.
4. Screed the surface smooth and let it cure overnight.

Installing Cement Board

Drywall has no place in a shower. Replace any drywall in the shower area with 1/2-inch cement board.

1. Cut cement board to fit using a scoring knife or circular saw with a masonry blade.
2. Leave a 1/4-inch gap between the bottom of the cement board and the top of the shower pan. Never let cement board sit in standing water.
3. Fasten to studs with cement board screws every 8 inches. Make sure seams fall on studs.
4. Tape all seams and corners with alkali-resistant mesh tape and a thin coat of thinset.

Step 4: Waterproofing — The Most Critical Step

If you get only one step perfect, make it this one. Poor waterproofing is the leading cause of shower failures, mold growth, and structural damage. The tile is not waterproof — the membrane behind it is what keeps water out of your walls.

Choose Your Waterproofing Method

Liquid-applied membrane (RedGard, Hydroban, or similar):

• Roll or brush two coats over all cement board surfaces inside the shower
• Each coat should be applied perpendicular to the previous one
• Embed mesh tape at seams and corners between coats
• The cured membrane should be a consistent, opaque color with no thin spots
• Allow each coat to dry completely (typically 1 to 3 hours depending on humidity)

Sheet membrane (Schluter Kerdi, Laticrete Hydro Ban Sheet):

• Apply with unmodified thinset
• Overlap seams by at least 2 inches
• Use pre-formed corners for inside and outside angles
• Seal around pipe penetrations with Kerdi-Seal or equivalent

Both methods work well. Liquid membranes are more forgiving for beginners, while sheet membranes provide a very consistent waterproof layer. Budget $100 to $250 for waterproofing materials.

The Flood Test

Before tiling, plug the drain and fill the shower pan with 1 to 2 inches of water. Mark the water level and wait 24 hours. If the level drops at all, you have a leak that must be found and fixed before proceeding.

Step 5: Tiling the Walls and Floor

With a fully waterproofed enclosure, you're ready for the finish work. Tiling is where your shower goes from construction zone to showpiece.

Tips for a Professional-Looking Tile Job

1. Start with a layout. Dry-fit your tiles on the floor to plan your pattern and figure out where cuts will fall. Avoid ending with thin slivers of tile at edges — adjust your starting point to keep cut tiles at least half-width.
2. Tile the walls first, then the floor. This way, wall tiles overlap the floor tiles and water runs down the wall face onto the floor rather than into a seam.
3. Use the right thinset. For large-format tiles (anything over 8 by 8 inches), use a medium-bed or large-tile mortar. For your waterproof membrane, use the mortar type the membrane manufacturer recommends.
4. Work in small sections. Spread only as much thinset as you can tile in 15 to 20 minutes. Thinset that skins over won't bond properly.
5. Build a recessed niche. Frame a niche between studs for shampoo and soap storage. Line it with cement board and waterproof it just like the rest of the shower. Tilt the bottom shelf slightly toward the shower interior so water drains out.
6. Keep consistent grout joints. Use tile spacers — 1/16-inch for a tight modern look or 1/8-inch for a more traditional appearance.

Grouting

Wait at least 24 hours after tiling before grouting. Use unsanded grout for joints 1/8 inch or narrower and sanded grout for wider joints. Work the grout diagonally across tile joints with a rubber float, then wipe excess with a damp sponge. After the grout cures for 72 hours, apply a penetrating grout sealer to protect against moisture and staining.

Important: Use 100% silicone caulk — not grout — at all changes of plane (where walls meet walls, walls meet the floor, and around fixtures). These joints need to flex, and grout will crack.

Step 6: Finishing Touches and Final Installation

You're in the home stretch. These finishing details make the difference between a DIY shower that looks DIY and one that looks professionally installed.

Install the Shower Fixtures

1. Install the valve trim plate, handle, and showerhead according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use thread seal tape (Teflon tape) on all threaded connections.
2. If you're installing a frameless glass panel or door, follow the manufacturer's template for drilling into tile. Use a diamond-tipped hole saw and keep it wet while drilling. Go slow — cracking a tile at this stage is heartbreaking.
3. For a budget-friendly option, a curved tension rod with a fabric curtain works perfectly and costs under $40.

Caulk All Transitions

Apply a smooth bead of mold-resistant silicone caulk:

• Where the shower pan meets the wall tile
• At all inside corners
• Around the valve trim plate and showerhead flange
• Around any niches or shelving edges

For a clean caulk line, apply painter's tape on both sides of the joint, lay your bead, smooth it with a wet finger, and remove the tape immediately while the caulk is still wet.

Final Testing

Run the shower for 15 to 20 minutes while you inspect every surface, joint, and connection. Check for drips under the floor if you have access. Look at the base of the walls outside the shower for any moisture. Everything should be bone dry.

Cost Breakdown and Timeline

Here's a realistic budget for a DIY tub-to-shower conversion using mid-range materials:

Item	Estimated Cost
Acrylic shower pan	$200–$500
Shower valve and trim	$100–$250
Cement board	$50–$80
Waterproofing membrane	$100–$250
Wall tile (60 sq ft average)	$200–$800
Floor tile	$50–$150
Thinset, grout, and caulk	$75–$120
Plumbing fittings	$50–$150
Shower door or curtain	$40–$600
Total	$865–$2,900

Timeline for a moderately experienced DIYer:

• Day 1: Demolition and plumbing rough-in
• Day 2: Shower pan installation, cement board, and waterproofing (first coat)
• Day 3: Second waterproofing coat and flood test
• Day 4–5: Wall and floor tiling
• Day 6: Grouting
• Day 7: Caulking, fixture installation, and final testing

Plan for a full week with cure times built in. Rushing the waterproofing or grout curing stages to save a day is never worth the risk.

You've Got This

A tub-to-shower conversion is one of those projects that delivers an outsized impact for the effort involved. You'll gain a more functional, modern bathroom while adding real value to your home — and you'll save thousands doing it yourself.

Take your time with the waterproofing, don't rush the plumbing connections, and plan your tile layout before you spread a single scoop of thinset. If you hit a step that feels beyond your comfort level — especially anything involving moving drain lines in a concrete slab — there's no shame in calling a plumber for that one piece and handling the rest yourself.

Your new walk-in shower is waiting. Grab that pry bar and get started.